Lighting installation: interior, exterior, smart, and the LED retrofit math

Three install scenarios with very different price tags. (1) Swap an existing fixture (same gang box, same wiring) — $75-$200 depending on fixture type and ceiling height. DIY-friendly if comfortable with a basic circuit tester. (2) Add a fixture to an existing circuit (e.g., second pendant from one switch) — $150-$400; involves running new wire + cutting drywall. Usually a pro job. (3) New circuit (e.g., adding outdoor lighting where there was none) — $300-$800 plus the fixture; requires running new wire from the panel + permit + inspection in most jurisdictions. Always a licensed electrician.

Recessed cans are the dominant interior light type in modern construction. Two install methods: (1) New construction housings — installed BEFORE drywall goes up; integrated with the framing. Doesn't apply to retrofits. (2) Remodel/IC-rated cans — designed to slip through a hole cut in existing drywall. The dominant retrofit option. Standard cost: $200-$400 each fully installed (fixture + labor + drywall patch around the cut). LED-integrated retrofit kits (e.g., Halo SLD606) install in 15 minutes per can, no housing needed: $40-$80 for the kit + $50-$120 install per location. The right call if you're replacing a light socket pull-chain ceiling fixture; less applicable for adding cans where none exist.

Most LED bulb failures + flicker problems trace to mismatched dimmers. Old incandescent dimmers (rotary triac) work poorly with LEDs — the LED appears to dim, then flickers, then fails 6-12 months in. Modern LED-compatible dimmers (Lutron Caseta, Leviton Decora Smart) cost $25-$60 each; the bulbs they support are explicitly listed on the manufacturer's "compatible LED" matrix. Two rules: (1) Always match dimmer to bulb per the matrix — don't assume any-LED works on any-dimmer. (2) Avoid mixing LED with halogen on the same dimmer. If you're replacing all bulbs on a circuit with LED, also replace the dimmer.

Three control approaches for outdoor lighting: (1) Dusk-to-dawn photocell — built into the fixture, $5-$15 added. Reliable, simple, on for ~12 hours per night. Most basic. (2) Motion sensor — comes on for 1-15 min when triggered. $20-$50 for a standalone PIR sensor; pairs with regular fixture. Significant energy savings vs dusk-to-dawn. (3) Smart scheduled (Hue, Lutron, Kasa) — set per-day schedules + scenes, geofence trigger when you arrive home. $40-$100 per fixture or smart bulb. Best for path lighting + security. Energy use of LED outdoor: 8-15W per fixture ON; ~$10/year per fixture for 12-hour nightly run.

Two paths to smart lighting: (1) Smart bulbs (Hue, Wyze, Sengled) — replace the bulb itself; controls each individually; supports color + scenes; $15-$60 each. Pro: flexibility per fixture. Con: physical wall switch must stay ON for the smart features to work; toddlers turning off the wall switch is the #1 frustration. (2) Smart switches (Lutron Caseta, Kasa, GE Enbrighten) — replace the wall switch; controls all bulbs on the circuit; works with any LED bulb; $25-$70 each. Pro: physical switch + smart control coexist. Con: no per-bulb color. Verdict: smart switches for whole-room on/off + dim; smart bulbs for accent + color rooms.

Combo units have specific needs: (1) Fan-rated ceiling box — older homes have light-only boxes (rated for ~10 lbs); fan boxes are rated 35-50 lbs. Replacing the box requires attic access + a fan-rated brace. $50-$150 for the brace + 1-2 hours of pro time. (2) Two switches if you want separate fan + light control — single-pole switching at the wall + a pull chain on the fixture is usable but less convenient. (3) Quality difference between $150 and $500 fans is real: blade balance + motor durability. Cheap fans wobble in 2-3 years and click; mid-range last 10-15. Total install for a fan+light combo where a light-only box is in place: $300-$600.