Door and window repair vs replacement: cost, signals, and finding a pro

A sticking door (won't close cleanly, latch doesn't engage, drags on floor or jamb) is one of the most common service calls — and one of the cheapest fixes. Causes: (1) seasonal wood movement (worst in spring/fall transitions); (2) settled hinges (screws worked loose); (3) settled house (doorway slightly racked); (4) painted-over hinge slop. The fix in 80% of cases: tighten hinge screws, replace one or two with longer screws (3" instead of 3/4") that bite into the framing. Cost: $150-$300 service call. Only 20% of cases need actual planing or rehanging — pros will tell you.

A foggy double-pane window means the seal between the two panes has failed and moisture is condensing inside. The fix is replacing just the IGU (insulated-glass unit) — the sealed glass sandwich — not the whole window. IGU replacement runs $200-$500 per pane. Whole-window replacement is $500-$1,500. Many companies push window replacement when an IGU swap solves the problem at 30% the cost. Always ask: "Can you replace just the IGU?" If the answer is "no, we don't do that," call a glass-only specialist (search "[city] insulated glass replacement"). If the window frame itself has rot or the IGU is uncommon size, replacement may be the right call — but get the IGU quote first.

Lock and door-hardware issues are simple and cheap. Common fixes: (1) sticky deadbolt — graphite lubrication, $50-$150 service. (2) Loose strike plate — re-mount with longer screws, $50-$100. (3) Lever or knob spinning freely — internal mechanism failure, replace lockset $100-$300 installed. (4) Smart-lock battery or sync issue — $0-$150 depending on whether the unit needs replacement. (5) Lockout — locksmith $75-$200 for a non-emergency call, $200-$500 emergency after-hours. Most door-hardware issues are 30-minute jobs; if a quote is over $200 for a single fix, ask what's included.

Repair if: (1) only the IGU is failed (foggy/condensation); (2) screen, sash hardware, lock, or weather-stripping is the issue; (3) frame is sound (no rot, no warping); (4) single window with a discrete problem. Replace if: (1) frame has rot, especially at sill or sash; (2) multiple repairs are stacking up over years; (3) original windows are single-pane and you want energy efficiency; (4) historical home with rotted muntins where matching is harder than full replacement. Cost: window repair $150-$600 per window; replacement $500-$1,500 per window installed (more for premium brands like Marvin, Andersen 400-series).

Two ways to replace a door: prehung (door + frame as a unit) vs slab (just the door, hung in existing frame). Prehung wins when the existing frame is damaged or out of square; runs $500-$1,800 for an interior door, $1,000-$3,500 for exterior. Slab wins when the existing frame is sound and you just want a different door style; runs $200-$800 for interior, $500-$1,500 for exterior. The catch: slab installs require precise mortise alignment for hinges and lockset — more skill required from the installer. Most home centers sell both options.

Salesfolk push window replacement on energy savings claims. Honest math: replacing single-pane windows with modern double-pane low-E saves ~10-25% on heating/cooling — meaningful but typically a 12-25 year payback at current energy prices. Replacing already-decent double-pane windows (made in the last 20 years) saves 3-10% — payback often longer than the new windows' lifespan. Replace windows for: rot, broken seals, drafts you can feel, or because you want the look. Don't replace solely for energy savings unless you're doing single-pane to triple-pane in a cold climate.