How much does home network wiring cost in 2026?
Cost breakdown
| Job type | Typical low | Typical high |
|---|---|---|
| Cat6 ethernet drop, installed (typical) | $150 | $300 |
| Cat6 ethernet drop, full published range | $125 | $350 |
| New coax outlet (no existing run) | $150 | $485 |
| Coax outlet, extended from an existing run | $60 | $150 |
| Coax outlet, straight replacement | $60 | $120 |
| Wi-Fi access point, installed | $265 | $644 |
| Router setup and configuration | $155 | $329 |
| Cat6 cable, material only (per foot) | $1 | $1 |
What a Cat6 drop costs
A single professionally installed ethernet drop in a finished home runs $125 to $350, with $150 to $300 the realistic planning range. That price covers the cable run, the keystone jack, the faceplate, termination at both ends and a continuity and speed test. Cost per drop falls as you add more in one visit, because the setup, the trip and the time spent finding a route are shared across all of them — running four drops is nowhere near four times the price of one.
Coax outlets and why replacing is so much cheaper
A brand-new coax outlet costs $150 to $485, with roughly $210 typical. Replacing an existing outlet is as little as $60, and extending from one that already exists runs $60 to $150. The gap is entirely about the cable path: if there is already a run to the room, the work is a faceplate and a termination. If there is not, someone has to get cable from the distribution point to that wall, and the distance and route are what you are paying for.
Wi-Fi access points versus more range extenders
A hardwired wi-fi access point installed runs $265 to $644 each, which sounds expensive next to a plug-in extender until you look at what it buys. An access point is fed by its own ethernet run, so it delivers full speed at the far end; an extender halves throughput because it talks to the router over the same air it serves clients with. If a room is dead, an access point on a wired drop fixes it properly. If the problem is one weak corner, an extender may be enough.
The cable is never the expensive part
Cat6 cable is $0.20 to $1.00 per foot, so the material in a 60-foot run is under a pound of copper and a few dollars. Labour is 60 to 70 percent of the bill, because the work is drilling, fishing cable through finished walls, working around fire blocks and insulation, then terminating and testing. This is why quotes vary so much between houses that look identical from the street: a single-storey home with an accessible attic is a fundamentally easier job than a two-storey with a finished basement, and no amount of cheaper cable closes that gap.
Best time to do it, and when DIY is realistic
The cheapest time to wire a house is before the drywall goes up — new build or a room already opened for a remodel. Running cable then costs a fraction of the same work later, so if walls are open for any reason, add the drops even if you do not need them yet. As DIY, terminating a keystone jack is genuinely learnable and the tools are inexpensive. Fishing cable through finished walls is the part that goes wrong: it is slow, it is easy to damage something you cannot see, and a run that tests badly has to come out and go back in.
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Find a handyman near you →Frequently asked questions
How much is one ethernet drop? ▾
$125 to $350 installed, most realistically $150 to $300. That includes the run, the jack, the faceplate, termination and testing.
Is it cheaper to do several drops at once? ▾
Much cheaper per drop. The trip, the setup and the time spent finding a cable route are shared, so four drops cost far less than four separate visits.
Why is a new coax outlet so much more than replacing one? ▾
Because a replacement is a faceplate and a termination on cable that already exists. A new outlet means getting cable from the distribution point to that wall, and the route is what you are paying for.
Should I get an access point or a wi-fi extender? ▾
An access point on a wired drop delivers full speed and fixes a genuinely dead room. An extender is cheaper but halves throughput, because it uses the same radio to talk to the router and to you. For one weak corner an extender may be fine.
Do I need Cat6, or is Cat5e enough? ▾
Cat5e handles gigabit fine and most homes never exceed it. Since labour is most of the cost and the cable is a few dollars either way, Cat6 is usually worth it — you are not paying much more for headroom on a run you will not want to redo.
Can a handyman do this, or do I need an electrician? ▾
Low-voltage cabling is a different trade from line-voltage electrical work and does not carry the same licensing requirements in most states. Anything touching mains power is an electrician job.
When is the cheapest time to wire a house? ▾
Before the drywall goes up. If walls are open for any reason, add the drops then even if you do not need them yet — the same work later costs several times more.
Can I run the cable myself? ▾
Terminating a jack is learnable and the tools are cheap. Fishing cable through finished walls is the hard part: it is slow, easy to damage something hidden, and a bad run has to come out and go back in.
Sources
Figures on this page are billed rates paid by homeowners unless stated otherwise. Wage data measures what a worker earns and is not the same quantity as a billed rate.
- HomeAdvisor — Coaxial outlet installation cost ($150–$485 new, ~$210 typical) — accessed 2026-08-24
- Homewyse — Cost to install home networking, January 2026 ($265–$644 per access point) — accessed 2026-08-24
- The Network Installers — Structured cabling and ethernet installation cost per drop — accessed 2026-08-24